Early spring is a dangerous time for large diameter aluminum wheels with low-profile tires. The pot-holes eat those wheels alive! The worst damage is usually on the inner rim (back-side of the wheel). If you take your 488 Ferrari back to the dealer a new wheel will cost a little over $4,000. This one is being repaired for a little over $400. Do the math! We can typically turn around a wheel repair in about a week.
With the onset of seriously cold winter temperatures in the Northeast, please remember to warm your engine before speeding away in your exotic, sports or any car in cold weather.
As tempting as it is to jump in and mash the gas pedal down, accelerating hard before the engine has a chance to warm the engine oil is harmful to your engine.
Engine Idling vs Restarting
While on the subject of cold weather driving, found this article on idling, which refutes the myth that idling a car is more environmentally friendly than restarting the engine. Drive the car to warm it, don’t idle. Sharing an excerpt from ‘the Daily Green’:
1. Driving Warms the Car Faster than Idling. If your concern is not the health of the car, but simply your own creature comforts, Bob Aldrich of the California Energy Commission points out that “idling is not actually an effective way to warm up a car — it warms up faster if you just drive it.”
2. Ten Seconds Is All You Need. Environmental Defense Fund, which produced the Idling Gets You Nowhere campaign, advises motorists to turn off their ignition if they’re sitting stopped for more than 10 seconds. “After about ten seconds, you waste more money running the engine than restarting it”.
3. Idling Hurts the Car. According to the Hinkle Charitable Foundation’s Anti-Idling Primer, idling forces an engine “to operate in a very inefficient and gasoline-rich mode that, over time, can degrade the engine’s performance and reduce mileage.”
4. Idling Costs Money. Over a year of five minutes of daily idling (which causes incomplete combustion of fuel), the “Anti-Idling Primer” estimates that the operator of a V-8-engined car will waste 20 gallons of gasoline, which not only produces 440 pounds of carbon dioxide but costs at least $60.
Reposting with some updates. Vintage Maserati A6GCS, Maserati A6G/2000, Maserati 3500GT, classic Maserati Merak SS and Maserati competition version A6 1500 3C. Service and restorations by Exoticars USA, Milford NJ. All mechanical services, complete and historically correct autobody services for vintage, classic and late model Maserati. We are serving the Maserati community since 1979.
In the gallery below, Maserati A6GCS, Maserati A6G/2000 and Maserati 3500GT. This is apparently the last surviving competition version A615003C vintage Maserati. We performed extensive restoration services for this car including engine work , engine compartment complete overhaul, chassis, brakes, interior, fuel system, etc. Of course almost no parts are available. Many parts that would be routinely thrown away on a more common car were repaired and quite a few missing or non-repairable components had to be custom made new.
Are your interior Ferrari parts sticky? The best present you could give your significant other Ferrari owner is a ‘sticky no more‘ treatment to rid interior buttons, control knobs, ashtrays, etc. of the horrible tacky, gooey surface these pieces acquire over time. These sticky parts cannot be cleaned in place on many models , due to the tiny original white markings which rub off during the cleaning process.
Our solution to eliminate the stickiness is to carefully remove all the affected pieces and ship them to well known expert Robbie Padgett in MD for top notch restoration. The pieces are cleaned and the original style markings are carefully laser etched. We have never been dissatisfied with this service and recommend this solution to correct the awful interior sticky part nightmare that really degrades the Ferrari driving experience.
Consider having this service done over the winter non-driving months as well as any other cosmetic items to avoid having your Ferrari in the shop during the good driving months.
We strongly recommend checking your Ferrari (or any vehicle) before going on a long club drive, rally or extended road trip. At a minimum, annually check your Ferrari thoroughly for road trip readiness and to prevent damage to car systems due to low use or prolonged storage. • Engine oil: Check oil level and the oil change due date. Change engine oil before a long road trip if you’re close to the due date to protect your engine. Check your owner’s manual for recommended motor oil types. • Transmission and differential fluids: Check your owner’s manual for fluid change intervals which are quite a bit longer than for engine oil. While your service center tech is under the car changing manual transmission oil and the differential oil, have them lubricate the drive-shaft U-joints and other grease points. • Hoses: Rubber hoses deteriorate over time. Check them for bulges, blisters or squishiness (not good) which indicate weak hose walls. If hoses are cracked or blistered, replace them. • Belts: Check the engine accessory belts for wear. If belts are torn, cracked or showing the fiber cords, replace with new belts. A loose belt will cause loud screeching noise. If your finger can depress the belt more than a half-inch of deflection at a point halfway between pulleys the belt is stretched. If it’s old and worn, replace it. If the belt is not worn out, it should be re-tensioned or it may fall off. On newer cars, if your car has less than 50,000 miles, the serpentine belt is probably ok but check the owners manual because they also need to be replaced at time intervals whether they seem worn or not. If your car has cam belts (timing belts) make sure they are less than 5 years old. • Engine coolant:. Always check that the coolant reservoir is topped up. Don’t mix coolant types Not all coolants are the same – don’t mix them! You must check your owner’s manual for the recommended coolant, there are numerous types. Be sure to use the same coolant type as is already in the engine. If the coolant in the reservoir and the radiator is cloudy, murky, it’s well past time for a change. • Tires: pressure: Know your recommended tire pressures. Consult your owner’s manual or check on the driver’s side door. Check tire pressure before you leave with a good gauge. Low tire pressures cause the tires to run hotter from the extra friction. It also wastes fuel. If a tire is not holding pressure, it has a leak and likely may blow out soon. Check for any bubbles or cracks in the tire walls and get a new tire if you spot a problem. Tire date codes:Rubber tires begin to deteriorate and fall apart after 5 years, whether or not there is tread on them. Learn how to read the manufacturers date codes on your tires and replace before 5 years. Tire wear: Check the tread on all four tires for uneven wear. If the tire tread-depth is less than 2/32” buy new tires. You can use an inexpensive tire tread gauge or in a pinch use a penny. If the depth is below Lincoln’s chin line, it’s time to change. • Brake system: Brake fluid over time attracts and absorbs moisture and will corrode your brake components internally. Check your brake reservoir for clear amber colored fluid, and make sure that it is topped up. If you haven’t had a flush in a year get it done before your trip. The less you drive a car the more important brake fluid changes become. Water-laden old brake fluid also lowers the fluid’s boiling point. A lowered boiling point can lead to a squishy brake pedal. • Battery: Check that the terminals are corrosion-free and the positive and negative leads are tight. If there is corrosion – white chalky stuff on the terminals – clean it off with a wire brush. Tighten the battery leads. If one falls off while driving, it can cause a “voltage dump” that could ruin the alternator. If the starter sounds sluggish, it could be terminal corrosion or a failing battery. • Finally, road test the vehicle before your trip: Take a quick drive at speed and listen for noises. Be alert for vibration and poor handling and watch for inoperative gauges or gauge warnings. Any noise at the wheel could signal a defective worn out wheel bearing or a worn CV joint. Pulling to the side may indicate an under-inflated tire, worn tires, a slipped tire belt or possible alignment problem. Defective brake rotors or worn brake pads can cause your car to shimmy or squeal while braking. A soft brake pedal may indicate a hydraulic leak or bad brake fluid. Check that all exterior lights function. Headlights that flicker at idle may be caused by a loose alternator belt, a failing alternator or corroded battery terminals. Make sure air intake openings in the body are not obstructed with leaves and debris which could cause overheating.
Call us today for our autobody special winter 2017 discount pricing on PDR, paint, rust remediation, panel replacement, paint work. No job too big or too small. (908)996-4889
STATE OF THE ART
Welcome to our new Accudraft paint booth which will increase depth, shine, and luster to our already award-winning paint while cutting down on time and cost. This booth has been developed to optimize air-draft technology and draw temperature controlled air underneath a car as opposed to a conventional side-draft unit. It’s double-filtered design ensures an unmatched dustless painting environment. Cleanliness, paint thickness, and clear-coat clarity are just a few advantages to our new high tech paint booth. This is the same exact booth Lamborghini is currently using in their factory in Italy due to its superior results.
If you love your exotic or sports car, you want it to look its best. Our paint and body work is performed to the highest standards. No job too big or too small. 1-888-416-7160
THE MEN BEHIND OUR WORK
Our lead body-tech Bob has been with us over 17 years making sure every classic and exotic car leaves perfect. Paul is a young restoration-degree holding specialist. Fred is a versatile worker who takes care of media-blasting and detailing. All of our staff are eager to please and proud of their products. Give us a call or stop in for an estimate.
I guess it’s a sign of our times that it’s not enough to have the pleasure of owning a marvelous piece of unique automotive engineering. We love sharing it with people who get what realizing the dream of a custom built roadster is all about. If Christopher Runge can be featured, why not the DG roadster?
Taking a throwback look to 2016 when our client’s Lamborghini LM002 American was a featured display for a season at the American Automobile Club Association Museum (AACA) in Hershey, PA. Here is Wil de Groot on display with this highly desirable ‘American’ model, of which only 60 were built. (Note: Wil was not a permanent part of the exhibit).
This 26 year old rare Italian SUV was treated to some extensive autobody refinishing at Exoticars USA to bring it back to its full glory. The story of these late 80s raging bulls is fascinating so please do go to Wikipedia or a Lamborghini fan site and read more.
If you are into automotive history and your are visiting the area, we heartily recommend a trip to the museum. Spanning three floors, the museum facilities are top notch and there are always interesting vehicles on exhibit.
Click on the logo to go straight to the AACA website for directions, a list of current exhibits and complete information.
The AACA is a member of the Smithsonian Institution Affiliations Program.